Baby Sophisticate
This is an extremely simple and quick knit that makes a very charming sweater for your little guy or gal. Using an aran weight yarn makes the knitting go fast, and the top down design means there is no seaming to drive you crazy! I think the shawl collar adds an air of sophistication – like this baby belongs in a library, sipping tea and reading Shakespeare!
Size: 0-3 months (6-12 months)
Finished Measurements: Chest – 16(19)”, Length – 7(8)” from underarm
Gauge: 15 sts/ 20 rows is 4” in Stockinette stitch
Yarn: Mission Falls 1824 Wool, 3 skeins
Needles: Size 8 US 24” circular, 8 US dpns
4 Buttons (7/8” diameter)
Tapestry needle
4 stitch markers
Abbreviations:
w&t: wrap and turn – bring yarn to front, slip next stitch from left to right needle, bring yarn to back, slip wrapped stitch back to left needle, turn work
pm: place marker
sl1: slip 1 stitch
inc1: increase one stitch by making a backward loop (see make 1, <http://knitty
.com/ISSUEspring03/FEATtheresa.html>)
PU: pick up
Begin Cardigan:
In this part of the pattern, you will be knitting the yoke of the cardigan. The increases on either side of the markers start to shape the sleeves and body. The three increases on either side of the neck create a slight v that helps to shape the shawl collar.
CO 28(34) sts
Row 1: sl1, k2(3), pm, k5(6), pm, k12(14), pm, k5(6), pm, k3(4)
Row 2 (and all WS rows): sl1, p remaining sts
Row 3: sl1, inc 1, *k to 1 st before marker, inc 1, k1, slip m, k1, inc 1, repeat from * to last stitch, inc1, k1 [38(44) sts]
Row 5: sl1, *k to 1 st before marker, inc 1, k1, slip m, k1, inc 1, repeat from * to end
Row 7: sl1, inc 1, *k to 1 st before marker, inc 1, k1, slip m, k1, inc 1, repeat from * to last stitch, inc1, k1 [56(62) sts]
Row 9: sl1, *k to 1 st before marker, inc 1, k1, slip m, k1, inc 1, repeat from * to end
Row 11: sl1, inc 1, *k to 1 st before marker, inc 1, k1, slip m, k1, inc 1, repeat from * to last stitch, inc1, k1 [74(80) sts]
Row 13: sl1, *k to 1 st before marker, inc 1, k1, slip m, k1, inc 1, rep. from * to end
Repeat row 2 and row 13 3(4) times more, until 106(120) sts
Continue to work in st st until the yoke measures 3.5(4.5)”, ending with a WS row
Split for body:
At this point, you will put the stitches for the sleeves onto holders to be knit later.
K to first m (right front), remove m, place next 23(26) sts on holder, join yarn to back, k to next m (back), remove m, place next 23(26) sts on holder, k to end (left front)
Continue body in st st, slipping the first st of each row, until length from underarm is 6(7)” (you should have 56(68) sts for body)
Work 7 rows in garter stitch, continuing to slip first st of every row
BO all sts in knit
Sleeves:
Place 23(26) sts from holder onto dpns
K all sts for 5(6)”
Work 7 rows in garter stitch (in the round -p1 row, k1 row)
BO all sts in knit
Repeat for other sleeve
Make collar:
Starting at left bottom edge, PU 1 st for every slipped sts along sides and every cast on st around neck of cardigan
K 4 rows
Row 5: k to 18(22) sts from end, w&t
Row 6: k to 18(22) sts from end, w&t
Row 7: k to 2 sts from wrapped st, w&t
Repeat row 7 5 times more (you should have wrapped and turned 4 times on each side of the collar)
Next row: K to the last 17(21) sts, picking up and knitting the wraps as you go, k2tog, YO, *k2(3), k2tog, YO, repeat to last 3(4) sts, k3(4)
Work 3 more rows in garter stitch (picking up and knitting the wraps on first row)
BO all stitches (loosely! I prefer EZ’s sewn bind off <http://knitty.com/ISSUEsummer
06/FEATsum06TT.html>)
Weave in ends (you will also have a hole at the underarm that needs to be sewn up)
Sew on buttons
Put on an adorable baby!
(C) 2009 Linden Heflin
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I had a question about the amount of yarn used. how many yards are in each of the skeins you used- so I can supplement the yarn.
thanks! beautiful pattern!- Sierra
I’m glad you like the pattern! Each ball of Mission Falls 1824 has 85 yards. So for the small, you need 170 yds and 255 yds for the larger size. I didn’t use all of the third ball for the larger size, though, so keep that in mind!
OOOOOH! Gorgeous pattern!! So perfect for all the babies on the way, and I *love* how it can be non-gender specific. Thank you so much!
I started to knit the Baby Sophisticate jacket and came upon the following stumbling block. Row 3 what is slip m
Thank you
“Slip m” means slip marker from the left to the right needle. Hope this helps!
Love the Baby Sophisticate pattern. How are the button holes knitted?
Hi! I’m glad you like the pattern! The button holes are worked by knitting two together then working a yarn over (k2tog, YO). Let me know if you have any other questions!
regarding the button holes…it looks like a boys sweater…but the buttons seem to be on the side for a girl. can i make the button holes on the other side easily?
I am in the process of knitting Baby Sophisticate sweater. When you measure 6″ long for the sleeves, do you measure from the top (shoulder) or underarm? So far, the sweater is wonderful, but I don’t want to make the sleeves too long. Also, I used Wood-ese – it seems as if it is a little narrow, but I think it will work. It’s gorgeous! Thanks.
Hi! Thanks for your comments! To answer your question, when I say 6″ for the sleeve, I am measuring from the underarm. Let me know if you have any questions/problems!
Thank you for such a handsome pattern!
Now, is this one on the “patterns” page the new, revised and improved version you mentioned earlier?
Thank you so much,
C.
I’m so glad you like the look! The pattern on the “patterns” page should be the correct version (actually, any version you find on here should be correct at this point). Let me know if you have any questions!
Just had a question before getting started. I have never made something where you have to turn your work. Is it easy? could you explain how you wrap and turn. thanks
Just finished the Baby Sophisticate sweater, turned out really really good, this pattern was great. Do you know where I can get the adult version of this pattern? Thanks.
I’m so glad you like how it turned out! I’m actually working on the adult version, so come back later and hopefully I’ll have it up. (Not too soon, though . . . ) :-)
I haven’t got a question. I think you are a sensationally marvellous woman for sharing this beautiful pattern.
blessings
A charming pattern – can’t wait to do it for new little Lilly, 6 mo. old great-granddaughter! Thank you!
Hi I love this pattern. I just came across your blog from Soulemama. I’m wondering how I would make this for a 2-3 yr old. Where would I need to make some increases in the pattern?
Hi! Thanks for your comments! If you wanted to make this in a larger size, it would be necessary to cast on a larger number of stitches (based on your gauge and how large you want the neck opening to be), then you could work more raglan increases in order to make the yoke deeper and the body and sleeves bigger. Since it is a top down design you could try the sweater on as you go to make sure that the chest and sleeves are big enough. Hope this helps!
What a cute cardigan, thank you for the pattern. When I am done with it, maybe we’ll take the “sophisticately dressed” to the library!
Just finished this ; it’s so cute!
Amazing sweater! Quick question, after removing sleeve stitches to holders, am I connecting the fronts to the back by knitting with a continuous piece of yarn? I guess I’m not familiar with “join yarn to back.” Thank you so much for any clarification and for sharing this fabulous sweater!
Hi Phoebe!
Yes, when you remove the sleeve stitches to holders, you will then connect the fronts to the back using a continuous piece of yarn. So, in other words, you knit the front, take off the sleeve stitches and then continue to knit the back with the same piece of yarn you knitted the front with. I hope this helps!
Perfect. Thank you! The sweater is coming along gorgeously.
Just curious, when knitting this sweater, size 0-3 months, I come up with 15, 23, 30, 23, 15 stitches across. Am I supposed to put 25 on hold regardless to have a larger right side? The way I read this the numbers are not working out. Thanks for the help and the handsome pattern!!!
Hi Leighsa!
Actually, you’ve found a mistake in the pattern! You should be putting 23 stitches on a holder for the sleeves instead of the stated 25. Thanks for letting me know! I’ll update the pdf right now!
-Linden
Please help! :(
Does anyone know what stitch the 4 markers should be on when you start the “Split For Body” section of the pattern?
I’ve made it this far and I accidentally took the 4 markers out too soon. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Stockinette,
I have one guess at a possible solution for my previous question. If I follow the row all the up that’s one stitch over from my increase stitch, that should be where the markers go. What do
you think?
Hi Nicole!
Following the stitches in between the increases should get the markers where you want them. But if you don’t want to do that, here is where they should be for the larger size: 17, m, 26, m, 34, m, 26, m, 17. Hope this helps!
sooo loved making this sweater and am looking forward to making another one soon.
Thank you for a wonderful pattern
So far I LOVE this sweater but I’m still confused about the “join yarn to back.” I read the above comment but don’t get it. Do you mean put the sleeves on the holders and continue knitting on the RS (the 34 stitches for the bigger sweater)? I don’t understand the “k to next m (back)” either. Are you saying back as in WS or back to the start of the row?
I really have a deficit in reading comprehension when it comes to knitting patterns! Thanks for any guidance you have for me!
Hi! I’m glad you are liking the sweater, but sorry for the confusion! : )
When you are separating the sleeves and the body, you want to knit on the right side up to the first marker, put the sleeve stitches on a holder, and then pull the section you’ve already knit and the back of the sweater (the next stitches to be knit) together and continue knitting with the same piece of yarn. You will then knit to the next marker that denotes the second sleeve, remove the sleeve stitches to a holder, and then join the stitches you’ve knit to the stitches waiting to be knit with the same yarn. You should then have the body all joined together and you can work back and forth until you’ve got the length you want.
Here’s a (really) rough drawing of what you want to do. This is what your sweater would look like if you took it off the needles and laid it out. All the sections that you knit will be knit with the same strand of yarn.
I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions!
Baby Sophisticate Yoke Illustration
Hi,
I had the same problem with understanding the “knit to the back” for the sleeves, but figured it out. I think pictures of the sweater at the major points of the pattern would be helpful. But I am not suggesting more work for you! and I appreciate the pattern. Its a good challenge.
So, I have finished knitting the body am removing the sleeve stitches from the holders to knit. First question is that it doesn’t make much sense to me why you would knit the sleeves on dpns if the sleeves are circular?
And second, maybe its because I’m a beginner but am I supposed to stitch the sleeves closed at the end? because they are knitting out flat, not a connected tube like shown in the finished picture. How do I get them to connect to a round sleeve? I’m thinking of going to the knitting shop tomorrow to see about getting some more help on these sleeves. But any clarification you can give would be helpful.
Thanks!
-Nicole
Hi Nicole!
For the sleeves, you switch to double pointed needles so that you can knit them in the round. They are meant to be knit in the round, but if you have already knitted the sleeves flat, you can seam them together at the end and you won’t be able to tell the difference!
I hope this helps!
what is the break down for the number of stitches when putting on collar? i know it says one for every row but the actual number would be helpful. thanks
please add me to your e-mail list
patterns look great and will be trtinhg one soon
thank you for sharing the pattern. i have enjoyed working on the sweater. it is my most complicated knit to date. i am having a bit of trouble with the w&t and collar. first, is the collar only a knit (garter) stitch? second, i am on row 5 and did the w&t do i go back to the beginning or somehow knit backwards all the way around to the lower right side then start row 6? thanks for the help if you can!
Hi Angela!
I’m glad you’ve enjoyed working on the sweater. To answer your first question, yes, the collar is garter stitch only. As far as the wrap and turn, you say that you have done the wrap and turn but don’t know where to go from there. When you did the w&t, did you turn your work after wrapping? If so, you should have your yarn in the back of the work and you should be able to start knitting on the other side of the fabric. If this is the case, then after the first w&t, you knit to 22 sts from the end on the other side of the sweater and work another wrap and turn. Does that help? Or have I completely missed the problem? Let me know!
-Linden
I’m sorry to say so but I also have trouble to imagine the sleeve trick : I saw the diagram but if you knit the first front stich just after the last back stitch with the same yarn, won’t those stitches get close to each other, causing the sleeve part to “ruffle” between them ?
or is this “ruffling” of the sleeve causing the “tubular” aspect of the sleeve and is desired at this point ? (just as an O becomes an 8 so the sleeve part woud become the top part of the 8 ? )
(i’m sorry for my bad english, it’s not my native language. thanks a lot for giving away this nice pattern, I hope i’ll be able to make it ! :) )
Hi Krysalia!
If I understand your question correctly, I think you have the right idea about the sleeves. When you remove the sleeve stitches to a holder and knit directly from the front to the back of the sweater you are essentially joining the front and the back at the underarm of the sweater. After you knit the body you will pick up the sleeve stitches (at the underarm), and knit the sleeve in the round. It might be helpful to remove the sleeve stitches and fold the sweater as it will be when it’s finished so that you can visualize the body and sleeves. I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any other questions!
-Linden
Ok, I see perfectly then !
thank you very much for the support you provide to us :)
I have two questions!!! I knitting the pattern for 3 months, but in the split for the body i have 6O no 56 and for each sleve i have 23. But when you said in the instruccions for the Sleeves:
Place 25(26) sts from holder onto dpns, like i said i have 23 could you tell me why!!!!!!????
Hi Gaby,
I’m sorry, there was an earlier version of the pattern where there was a mistake saying that you should remove 25(26) sts to a holder for the sleeves. This was updated a while ago to say that you should remove 23(26) sts for the sleeves, but I see in the above post that it still says 25(26). I will correct this version of the pattern, but as far as your question – you should have 23 sts for each sleeve! I hope this clears things up! Let me know if you have any more questions!
-Linden
I’m Sorry I didn’t say PLEASE!!!! …
Could You Help me please… Thanks!!!!
Hi. Adorable sweater. I would like to knit one for my 12 yr old also. Do you have plans of making a pattern for all sizes???
I have a question on the picking up the ‘wrapped stitches”. How many stitches do I pick up from each wrapped stitch?
Thanks gina
Hi Gina!
Thanks! I am planning on writing up the pattern for multiple sizes (child to adult), but I’m not sure how soon that will be! : ) When you pick up the wrapped stitches, you are just picking up the yarn that you originally wrapped the stitch with and knitting it together with the stitch. Here’s a video from Cat Bordhi on working short rows and how to wrap & turn.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yVikAvPuE4
I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions!
I decided that I didn’t want to make the sweater as long as 7 inches from underarm + 7 rows of garter stitch. Therefore the directions for making the collar need to be modified. On the 5th row will it work if I start the w&t at the line straight across from the underarm? From the photo it looks like this should work. Thanks
Hi Mary,
As long as you start the shaping for the collar in line with the underarm of the sweater, it should have the same look as the original sweater. I recently made one of a different length and did exactly that!
I love your designs!! I just printed Milly off of the knitty website last night and went to your page link. Then I found the Sophisticate and realized I have it as one of my faves on Ravelry! Great job! LOVE your patterns so much!
Dear Linden,
This is a lovely pattern. My daughter found it and asked me to make it for her little boy. He is a year old and it is a bit snug especially at the left shoulder, and the buttons gape after his meal! I’m making another one for him in a different colour (I’m using Bernat Satin yarn). I would like to make it bigger this time. I’m using a US 9 or5/5mm needle and I would like to add more stitches. You added 6 stitches to go from 0-3months to 6-12 months. Could I add 6 again plus the larger size needle to give me 18-24 months? If I just keep making changes to match what you’ve done eg. Row 1 k2(3), I’ll k(4), and for k12(14), I’ll k(16). I’m not quite sure how to adjust for length -could you advise me? I’m having trouble with increasing in Row 3. Someone showed me how for the first sweater, but I didn’t draw it out, and now I can’t remember what to do and the web site you gave on the pattern just keeps putting up the pattern. Could you draw a diagram to show me how to do this stitch? Also, could you tell me what I did wrong on the left shoulder – I thought I followed your instructions properly, but I must not have – I would like this sweater not to be tight at the shoulder or across the button front area – it seemed to be pulled in rather than hanging straight down. Thank you so much. I’m looking forward to seeing your adult version of this to make for my son-in-law, so they match!
Hi Marjorie! Thanks, I’m glad you like the pattern! I’m not sure what gauge you are getting with the larger needles, but an easy way to see how many extra increases you need to add in the yoke to get the right size would be to compare your gauge to these sizing charts and make sure you have enough stitches for the 18-24 month size. In row 3, you are simply adding an increase at the neck edge, worked in the same way as you do at the raglan increases – i.e. you knit 1 stitch, work a firm backward loop and then continue until 1 stitch from the end, work a firm backward loop, knit 1. I’m not really sure what you are describing on the left shoulder – can you tell me more about how it looks, or do you maybe have pictures on a Ravelry page I could look at? I hope some of this helps – let me know if you have any other questions! :)
This is my first sweater of any size and I made it quickly in just an evening and a day. I was so proud of myself! Your directions were easy to follow and it turned out SO CUTE!!! I wish I could post a picture! Thank you so much for a great pattern!
I’m back with a link to some photos of the Baby Sophisticates sweater I knitted. I posted them on my blog: http://www.sunflowerway.blogspot.com. So, if you’re interested to see how my sweater turned out (I actually made 2), then please stop by. I’m so proud of them. Fantastic pattern. I will ever be grateful.
For all of those double pointed haters like me. I did make the sleeves on straight needles. After I slipped the stitches off of the holder I increased two stitches on either side of the sleeve. When I finished the sleeve I sewed up the seam, and armpit. The stitches were a little tight on the needle the first couple rows and I did have to play with the armpit a little to get it to close up nice. But for me a lot less trouble then playing with double points. I have a real habit of loosing them off the other end. :)
Hope this helps people out there.
I love this sweater. Thank you very much for putting the time and effort into creating it, and sharing it with others. The best part about the sweater… you don’t have to sew it up at the end, that is my kind of knitting. I have made a couple and they are great. I would love to have different sizes from larger infant / kid sizes to adult. Thanks again.
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how many st between each button hole please.
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im very new to knitting and really am greatful at how clear and easy this pattern is!! thank you so much for giving it to us! it will make a great baby gift.
I just stumbled onto this pattern and LOVE the style and the simplistic design. It looks wonderfully quick to knit. What a great gift sweater! Thank you for creating yet another baby “must have” :). Would love to make it in larger sizes too!
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Hi Stockinette,
I made this sweater up for 1 of my great-nephew (Holden – 3 1/2 months, now) with Martha Stewart’s new alpaca yarn in the color “Cranberry”. My niece was THRILLED with it. Then I made a 2nd one for Holden’s older cousin Cole in Vanna’s choice yarn – color “Woods print”. BOTH of these sweaters were EASY and quick to make, I used size 9 needles for both sweaters. Thanks SO much
for sharing this pattern with ALL of us!
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Hello,
I just love the pattern Baby Sophisticate. I bought Blue Sky Alpace’s 100% organic cotton for the project. Is the pattern available for a child size? I would really like to make another one in a larger size. I do not have the expertise to change the pattern. Thank you for sharing your beautiful pattern.
Dawn Krupa.
Hello,
I just love the pattern Baby Sophisticate. I bought Blue Sky Alpace’s 100% organic cotton for the project. Is the pattern available for a child size? I would really like to make another one in a larger size. I do not have the expertise to change the pattern. Thank you for sharing your beautiful pattern.
Dawn Krupa.
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Hello there..I am a bit lost on the Baby Sophisticate jacket. Why do you start off sl1 then increase for the starting of some rows and not others? You say to not increase on one side and than at the end of that row you say to increase…Example being row 5 vs Row 7. Why do you start off row 5 saying sl1 (than No inc) and row 7 saying sl1 inc? do I just not increase on either side of the end markers but only in the middle markers? Very cute jacket…I want to make it so bad!
Hi! The reason there is a difference between some rows (e.g. 5 and 7) is that on every other row I have you increasing at the neck edge in order to create a slight v-neck shape. I hope this helps!
Hey…do I just skip the one increase in that row then? Cause it then says to inc before and after the markers. Thanks btw for the fast response.
Hi! I’m not sure exactly what you mean by the one increase in that row. You should be increasing on either side of every marker on every right side row. On every other right side row, you should be increasing on both sides of the neck edge. Does that make sense?
Ok I think I understand now…so when I am starting a row that I don’t increase on…than that means there is NO increase on either side of the end markers right?
All the marker sections should be even on each side then???
Because I was getting more increases on the end markers (they weren’t matching up)
So the off rows that you don’t increase on (neck edge) then there is the other rows which you do increase on. I think I get it…I’ll give it another go! Thanks
I am having problems with R3 of main body. After CO28st I get to sl1, inc2, K, pm, K, inc1, K, inc1, K, pm, K, inc1, K8, inc1, K1, pm, K1, inc1, K, inc1, K, pm, K, inc1, and then run out of stitches to complete the inc1, K. At the end of my increases I already have 37 stitches wne i run out of stitches to complete the rest of the row
Hi! I’m sorry, but I’m not quite sure about your question. Are you talking about row 3 or row 1? Just checking because our numbers don’t quite match up! In any case, I think I may know what the problem is – where the pattern says, “*k to 1 st before marker, inc 1, k1, slip m, k1, inc 1, repeat from * to last stitch,” you do not work “k1, inc1″ all the way across to the end, you only work the “k1, inc1″ right at the stitch marker. In other words, you need to work the whole sequence, “k to 1 st before marker, inc 1, k1, slip m, k1, inc 1″ as the repeat. I may be totally off base, but I just thought this might be the issue. Let me know if there’s any other way I can help!
Do you mean knit to 2 stitches before the marker??
You are increasing on the second stitch before the marker aren’t you?
That is confusing..
Hi! The increase that I use in the pattern actually doesn’t interfere with another stitch (it’s a backward loop made on the right needle), so if you are using that increase you need to knit to 1 st before the marker. If you want to use a different increase that does require another stitch (like “knit in front and back of loop”), then yes, you would knit to 2 sts before the marker. Hope this helps!
Thanks it does help… More diagrams would hep too!